BIAAF – Bilbao International Art & Fashion has awarded the Category A Award of its 10th edition to Slovenian designer Lan Krebs, recognising a project that expands the creative and structural possibilities of knitted textiles through an innovative exploration of tubular knit construction. The award-winning collection reinterprets knitted fabric as a sculptural medium capable of generating form directly on the body, challenging conventional garment construction while investigating the relationship between material, movement and contemporary textile innovation.

Research-driven textile innovation

Lan Krebs graduated from the Master’s programme at the Swedish School of Textiles, where he specialised in circular knitting techniques. Throughout his studies, he used hand-operated knitting machines as experimental tools for drawing, prototyping and developing new approaches to textile construction. His practice combines knitwear with printing, dyeing and pleating techniques, while integrating digital tools into the garment development process. Positioned between traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation, his work focuses on material experimentation, sustainability and the creative potential of textile processes.

Knitting as a sculptural language

The award-winning project investigates how layering, wrapping and direct textile intervention can generate form without relying on conventional tailoring or pattern-cutting techniques. Using tubular knitted fabrics produced on circular knitting machines, the collection transforms a simple jersey knit into a dynamic sculptural language capable of enveloping and reshaping the body through the intrinsic behaviour of the textile itself. As the designer explains: “I started building the collection from a jersey knit made on a knitting machine. It is a very simple fabric, but I wanted to transform it into something more interesting—something beyond a plain striped textile.” Rather than seeking innovation through entirely new technologies, the project proposes a different perspective: regenerating and reactivating existing textile technologies through subtle interventions that reveal new possibilities within familiar materials. Inspired by natural processes of regeneration and adaptation, the collection explores how industrial textiles and standardised knitted fabrics can evolve into complex structures while extending the lifespan and creative potential of circular knitting technologies.

Material experimentation at the service of design

The collection is constructed from a white circular-knitted base fabric incorporating a single polyester monofilament stripe. The synthetic monofilament provides the structural stability required for pleating, while the cotton fibres absorb colour during garment dyeing. The pieces are subsequently treated using a burnout process, selectively removing cellulose fibres to create translucent areas that enhance texture, depth and visual contrast throughout the final silhouettes. Through these interventions, Krebs transforms an apparently simple textile into a three-dimensional material language where structure, movement and craftsmanship coexist.

Recognising innovation in contemporary fashion

With this award, BIAAF recognises a project that demonstrates how innovation can emerge from reinterpreting existing textile technologies through research, experimentation and technical excellence. The international jury highlighted the project’s conceptual clarity, the sophistication of its textile development and its ability to redefine knitwear as a construction system within contemporary fashion. By awarding Lan Krebs the Category A Award, BIAAF reaffirms its commitment to supporting emerging designers whose work expands the boundaries of fashion through innovation, sustainability and material research.

About BIAAF

BIAAF (Bilbao International Art & Fashion) is an international platform dedicated to discovering, supporting and nurturing the next generation of fashion designers. Through BIAAF Lab, its innovation and development hub, the organisation fosters innovation, sustainability and dialogue between fashion, art, education and industry, creating meaningful opportunities for emerging talent to grow and thrive. Based in Bilbao, BIAAF connects young designers with some of the world’s leading fashion schools, companies and institutions, providing a platform for education, visibility and professional development. Its mission is to contribute to a more conscious, innovative and forward-thinking fashion industry, demonstrating that fashion is a powerful driver of culture, knowledge and social impact, and that emerging talent is one of the key forces shaping the creative landscape of the 21st century.